Trango Towers (Mountain)

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Article Upload Date: Mon 30 Jan 2017
2017-01-30 08:19:35Trango Towers
The Trango Towers are a family of rock towers situated in Gilgit-Baltistan, in the north of  Pakistan . The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world, and every year a number of expeditions from all corners of the globe visit Karakoram to climb the difficult granite.[1] pakistan - alpine.com They are located north of Baltoro Glacier, and are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram range. The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower at 6,286 m (20,623 ft), the east face of which features the world's greatest nearly vertical drop.
  • Information
  • Location:

    Baltistan, Pakistan

  • Type:

    Mountain Granite

  • Local Language Name:

    ٹرینگو ٹاور

  • Coordinates :

    35°46"N 76°11"E

  • Details
  • Elevation:

    6,286 m (20,623 ft)

  • Prominence:

    approx. 800 metres (2,625 ft)

  • Parent Range:

    Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram

  • First Ascent:

    1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz and Dennis Hennek

  • Easiest Route:

    Northwest face: snow/ice/rock climb

  • Situated:

    Gilgit-Baltistan, in the north of Pakistan

  • Facts:

    Largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world

  • Sub-range:

    Karakoram range

  • Highest point:

    6,286 m (20,623 ft)

  • First Time Climbed:

    By Pakistani rock climbers in history. Imran Junaidi and Usman Tariq successfully reached to the summit of Trango Tower in July 2014

  • Great Trango Climbed:

    1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek

  • Climbing route:

    west side (Trango Glacier)

About

History

Trango Towers in Summer
Trango Towers in Summer
Overall, the  Trango Towers  group has seen some of the most difficult and significant climbs ever accomplished, due to the combination of altitude, total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock[2] American Alpine - Journal All of the routes are highly technical climbs. Trango Towers  have only been climbed once by Pakistani rock climbers in history. Imran Junaidi and Usman Tariq successfully reached to the summit of  Trango Tower  in July 2014 and opened a new route with difficulty 5.10d, A0. They are also the first locals to attempt  Trango Tower , in September 2013, but were forced by heavy snowfall to descend from camp 2. Two days later, however, the team climbed a virgin line at Trango Braak, reporting difficulty of 5.10, A1.

Great Trango

Great Trango Towers
Great Trango Towers
Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side (Trango Glacier), and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face.[3] Great Trango - Tower The east face of Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent.The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, via "The Grand Voyage", a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians, and the only route ever completed up the 1,340m east-southeast headwall. These two climbs have been called "perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world."[4] Style, Hodder - Stoughton

Other summits

Trango Towers summits
Trango Towers summits
The West summit of Great Trango and the Trango Pulpit were both first climbed in 1999. The West summit was climbed by two separate teams, one American and one Russian, almost simultaneously, by parallel routes. The American team of Alex Lowe, Jared Ogden, and Mark Synnott climbed a long, bold, highly technical line which they called "Parallel Worlds." They reported difficulties up to 5.11 and A4. The Russian team of Igor Potan'kin, Alexandr Odintsov, Ivan Samoilenko and Yuri Koshelenko climbed an equally proud route (Eclissi) and encountered similar technical challenges. Both climbs were nominated for the prestigious Piolet d'or award in 1999. The north east face on the Pulpit was climbed by a Norwegian team ("Norwegian Direct", Robert Caspersen, Gunnar Karlsen, Per L. Skjerven, and Einar Wold) over a total of 38 days on the wall. The team reported of difficulties up to A4/5.11. Other route over Trango Pulpit is More Czech Less Slovak route VII 7-UIAA A2 (Southeast Ridge). It was climbed 1999 Czechoslovak team (Ivo Wondracek, Tomas Rinn, Pavel Weisser, Jaro Dutka, and Michal Drasar).

Recent ascents

Some more recent ascents on Great Trango have focused on the longer routes found on the west and south sides. In particular, in 2004 Josh Wharton and Kelly Cordes completed a new, very long (2,256 metre/7,400 ft) route on the Southwest Ridge, or Azeem Ridge, to the Southwest Summit. Though not as extremely technical as the East Face routes, the climb was notable for the extremely lightweight and fast (5 days) style in which it was done.[5] Alpine Journal -   2005 Over 7 days in August 2005, two Slovak climbers, Gabo Cmarik and Jozef Kopold, climbed a new route, which they termed Assalam Alaikum, to the right of the Wharton/Cordes line on the south face of Great Trango. The climb comprised around 90 pitches, up to 5.11d A2. They used a lightweight style similar to that of Wharton and Cordes.[6] Cmarik/Kopold - route Also in August 2005, a South African team, composed of Peter Lazarus, Marianne Pretorius, James Pitman and Andreas Kiefer, climbed to the summit via the Slovenian route. Pretorius was the third woman to reach the summit.[7] South Africans - Tower During May/June 2008, the Norwegian route on the east face of Great Trango (1984) was repeated by the four Norwegian climbers Rolf Bae, Bjarte Bø, Sigurd Felde and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, spending 27 days in the wall to reach the summit, and three more days for the descent. This is reportedly the first repetition of the route, and thus also the first successful ascent and return.[8] Trango  - Climbing magazine Rolf Bae died later that summer. He was one of 11 climbers who were killed in the 2008 K2 disaster.

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