LocationOnly the main peak and Noshaq West (7250m) are on the Afghanistan-Pakistan border (the Durand Line), a watershed divide. The other peaks of this massif lie well within Pakistan and are easily accessible from Chitral, 64 km away. The west side of the massif is in Afghanistan whereas the south and eastern sides are in Pakistan . The second highest peak in this massif is Noshaq East (7480m), climbed in 1963 by Dr.Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischenger from Austria. The third highest peak of the massif is Noshaq Central (7400m) followed by Noshaq West. These peaks were also climbed by the same Austrian expedition of 1963.The mountain is 28 km from Qazi Deh village in Afghanistan, a journey of about five days. Qazi Deh is 280 km away from Kabul, Afghanistan; the easiest access to Noshaq is from Chitral, Pakistan which is linked to Islamabad by flights.
Climbing HistoryAt 7492m Noshaq is the fourth highest peak of the Hindukush range.The mountain has four separate peaks . The main peak was climbed in 1960 along the south east ridge from the Qadzi Deh glacier by a Japanese expedition led by Professor Sakato. Other members of the expedition were G. Iwatsabo and T. Sakai.The second highest peak in this range is Noshaq East at 7480m climbed in 1963 by Dr Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischinger from Austria. The third highest peak of the range Noshaq Central is 7400m . The Austrian expedition of 1963 of Dr Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischinger are also credited with climbing the fourth peak of Noshaq range called Noshaq West at 7250m.
Climbing RouteLogistically the route through Pakistan is more convenient as things are more organized from this end. You follow the Tirich Mir route through the Lower & upper Tirich glaciers to Babu camp From here you branch out from the upper Tirich glacier towards Noshaq base camp. The climb involves crossing a moraine between two icefalls then a scree slope to the south ridge. The two ice falls flowing from Noshaq make it a technically difficult ascent from this side , three camps are established before final ascent is made.
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