Noshaq (Mountain)

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Article Upload Date: Mon 30 Jan 2017
2017-01-30 08:30:48Noshaq
The area is quite isolated from Taliban areas. Moreover, Wakan is populated by Ismaili people that are in general against Taliban. Biggest threat is that you will be looted by local service provider. But we will get to it later. Well, that not only threat, that certain. Compare to standard 7k peaks where you can get nice service in BC you will be facing some more challenges. First and biggest challenge is logistic. Second is security. A yes, and actually last, but not least problem will be climbing the peak. Before getting to Afghanistan There are several things that you should not forget. First are VISAs. Remember that you would like to return back to the Tajikistan, thus you will need double entry to avoid ending stuck in Afghanistan. Second, beside your good climbing gear that you can rent in Afghanistan you will need to get propane-butane mix. And this could be a problem as it can be carried in plane and it not easy to get in Dushanbe[1] mountain - forecast
  • Information
  • Location:

    Afghanistan–Pakistan border

  • Countries :

    Afghanistan and Pakistan

  • Province :

    Badakhshan and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

  • Nickname:

    Nowshak or Nōshākh

  • Type:

    Mountain

  • Local Language Name:

    نوشاخ‎

  • Coordinates :

    36°25'54"N 71°49'42"E

  • Details
  • Elevation:

    7,492 m (24,580 ft)

  • Prominence:

    2,024 m (6,640 ft)

  • Isolation:

    18.89 kilometres (11.74 mi)

  • Listing:

    Country high point Ultra

  • Parent Range:

    Hindu Kush

  • First Ascent:

    1960 by Toshiaki Sakai & Goro Iwatsubo (Japan)

  • Rank:

    Fourth highest peak of the Hindukush range

  • First climbed by:

    Japanese expedition in 1960 led by Professor Sakato

  • Members of the Expedition:

    Goro Iwatsabo and Toshiaki Sakai

  • First winter ascent:

    1973 by Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Zawada, members of a Polish expedition

  • Noshaq West:

    (7250m)

  • Noshaq East:

    (7480m)

  • Noshaq Central:

    (7400m)

  • Accessible:

    From Chitral, 64 km away

About

Noshaq Pakistan
Noshaq Pakistan
Noshaq is the highest peak in Afghanistan and the second highest peak in the Hindu Kush Range (after Tirich Mir) at 7,492 m (24,580 ft). It lies on the border between Badakhshan Province in Afghanistan and Chitral District,  Khyber Pakhtunkhwa ,  Pakistan , and is the world's westernmost 7,000 meter massif.Noshaq was first climbed by a Japanese expedition in 1960 led by Professor Sakato. Other members of the expedition were Goro Iwatsabo and Toshiaki Sakai. The climb followed the normal Pakistan approach, the southeast ridge from the Qadzi Deh Glacier. The normal Afghanistan approach route is by the west ridge. The first winter ascent was in 1973 by Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Zawada, members of a Polish expedition, via the north face. It was the world first winter climb of any 7000m peak.

Location

Only the main peak and Noshaq West (7250m) are on the Afghanistan-Pakistan border (the Durand Line), a watershed divide. The other peaks of this massif lie well within Pakistan and are easily accessible from Chitral, 64 km away. The west side of the massif is in Afghanistan whereas the south and eastern sides are in  Pakistan . The second highest peak in this massif is Noshaq East (7480m), climbed in 1963 by Dr.Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischenger from Austria. The third highest peak of the massif is Noshaq Central (7400m) followed by Noshaq West. These peaks were also climbed by the same Austrian expedition of 1963.The mountain is 28 km from Qazi Deh village in Afghanistan, a journey of about five days. Qazi Deh is 280 km away from Kabul, Afghanistan; the easiest access to Noshaq is from Chitral,  Pakistan  which is linked to  Islamabad  by flights.[2] noshaq - mountain

Climbing History

At 7492m Noshaq is the fourth highest peak of the Hindukush range.The mountain has four separate peaks . The main peak was climbed in 1960 along the south east ridge from the Qadzi Deh glacier by a Japanese expedition led by Professor Sakato. Other members of the expedition were G. Iwatsabo and T. Sakai.The second highest peak in this range is Noshaq East at 7480m climbed in 1963 by Dr Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischinger from Austria. The third highest peak of the range Noshaq Central is 7400m . The Austrian expedition of 1963 of Dr Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischinger are also credited with climbing the fourth peak of Noshaq range called Noshaq West at 7250m.[3] Noshaq is  fourth highest peak - Hindukush range

Climbing Route

Logistically the route through Pakistan is more convenient as things are more organized from this end. You follow the Tirich Mir route through the Lower & upper Tirich glaciers to Babu camp From here you branch out from the upper Tirich glacier towards Noshaq base camp. The climb involves crossing a moraine between two icefalls then a scree slope to the south ridge. The two ice falls flowing from Noshaq make it a technically difficult ascent from this side , three camps are established before final ascent is made.[4] The climb involves crossing  between - two icefalls


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